Friday 28 February 2014

The Chironomid Pupa

 
 
 
The Chironomid Pupa is one of my favorite flies when there is no discernible hatch going on in the spring. Chironomids are always hatching or preparing to hatch in the spring and the more subdued hues of this fly imitate the pupa that are not quite ready to begin the dangerous journey to the surface. Instead of silver to rib the fly to imitate the silvery appearance of the pupa moving to the surface, grey ribbing mimics a more immature stage of the pupa. Other colors can be used as well, I have had good luck with red as well as tan ribbing. The fly is more realistic than the various bead head flies which for some reason appeals to me as well.
 
I fish this fly quite close to the bottom of the water column and try to stay close to weeds, not because the pupa lives in weeds but because I find trout like to hang around weeds and their various food sources. I like it under an indicator or float, just suspended without any movement on my part. Takes can be quite subtle so a lot of concentration is required watching the indicator for movement. I find if I strike sideways instead of up at the take I hook a higher percentage of fish. I think lifting up a lot of movement of the rod is wasted in straightening out the bow in the line which inevitably forms when still fishing.  When I strike side ways, the weight of the water keeps tension on the line, and even though there is a bow in the line, it is in a more direct motion, if that makes sense. Some people fish this fly without an indicator, I would find this difficult as I think a person would miss a lot of subtle takes.
This fly should be fished hanging vertically, and would benefit from being tied with an open clinch knot found here.
 
Materials for this fly would be; Mustad C49S hook in size 10 to 16, super floss in brown, small ribbing of your choice in color, pheasant tail fibres, peacock herl, some poly, antron or nylon white gill material, lead substitute weight and black Uni thread in 6/0 or 8/0. 
 
 
 
 
 
First step is to lay a base of thread and tie in about a dozen pheasant tail fibres, on top of this tie down the gill material.
 
 
 
 
Then I add a little lead substitute to help the fly sink faster, tie this down so it doesn't move on you. Next I tie in the wire ribbing and a split four inch piece of super floss. When you split the super floss keep the piece that will give you the body size you desire, stretching it as you apply it can be done to make it thinner as well but I don't like to get carried away with that, as I worry about fatigue in the rubber. I don't want it breaking before I even get to use the fly.
 
 
 
 
 
Wind the super floss foreward and tie off, I counter wind the ribbing so that it keeps everything in place and tie that off as well.
 
 
 
 
Break off the last two inches from the tips of two pieces of peacock, this will leave you with a stronger piece to wind. I then tie them in and wind my thread around them about six times for strength, then make a couple of wraps with this and tie off.
 
 
 

Split the gills into two equal sections and bring the wing case back between them, tie this off behind the peacock and then whip finish the thread behind the wing case. Trim the gills at about 1/8 in.
 
 

 

 
The finished fly will have the two gill plates coming out like this. Try this subdued version of pupa when the hatch is slow in the spring, I think you will be pleasantly surprised.
 
 
 

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